Fourteen years ago, Emily Nussbaum, one of my esteemed predecessors in the TV-critic chair, notoriously titled her Top Ten list " I Hate Top Ten Lists." I've seldom felt the same. I'm not much of a holiday person, but, for most of the time that I've been a working critic, I've loved the end-of-year ritual of sorting the so-so from the superb and the overhyped from the justly praised, pruning my favorites down to a most-deserving few.