#verona

#verona

The drinks scene here has undergone something of a Renaissance, with the number and variety of options across the city blossoming. Of course, there are still the old school stalwarts that adhere to the traditional Italian idea of a bar-envision the quintessential all-day café-bar where you might stand at the counter for a cappuccino in the morning, grab a quick panino at lunchtime, or linger over an aperitivo after work.

Milan is this centrifuge in which there is no past and no future, but an eternal present, even a bit contradictory. Some are not fans of it, but others - like Rafael Leao - immerse themselves in it. A buzz around the city that rarely quiets, especially with the Winter Olympic Games over and Fashion Week beginning with 162 events and 132,000 new visitors.

Our ride was down Venice's Grand Canal, the most famous one in the city, and I knew that was a mistake almost right away. Pulling away from the dock alongside several other boats reminded me of rush hour. Our gondola was sandwiched between two other boats, and I was worried about getting bumped the entire time.

Historically speaking, an osteria was a spartan, no-frills establishment where people would go to have a drink. The original osterias date all the way back to the Roman Empire. If you go to Ostia Antica or Pompeii, you find the osterias of the era. They were like bed-and-breakfasts, with rooms for rent above the dining room where people could listen to music.

On the final turn, Atrani appeared through a rock tunnel, its bridge illuminated against the purple night, houses cascading toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. Beneath the bridge, a narrow opening led to 80 whitewashed steps and winding passages to the lobby of our hotel, where the receptionist was waiting with a clunky key.

"Piano piano" is an old Italian saying that sounds nonsensical, but is actually full of wisdom, especially if you, like me, are finding yourself wishing away these frigid winter days and hoping spring and summer gets here fast. These days, I've found myself rushing from one thing to the next, frustrated at the smallest things, from post office lines to just missing my train. And I'm ready to make a change.

During my recent 17-day trip there, I realized Ischia has everything its more popular neighbor offers - great shopping, a castle, beaches, a botanical garden - but with fewer tourists. Here's why it belongs on your Italy itinerary.

The Winter Oympics opening ceremony arrived shrouded in mystery. There wasn't a lot of advance publicity about what might happen, beyond a list of musical performers, heavier on popular classical names including Andrea Bocelli and Lang Lang than pop stars and a quote from the event's creative lead and executive producer, Marco Balich, that it would eschew hi-tech and bling.

The ravioli-type dish, also known as casunziei all'Ampezzana, consists of homemade half-moon shaped pasta filled with boiled beets, topped with a sauce of melted butter, Parmesan cheese and poppy seeds. It's a simple dish that harks back to the Alpine region's poorer past - long before Cortina transformed into a winter playground for the international jet set. Even in the coldest days of winter, local families had the ingredients in their cupboards.

Saint-Jorioz in Haute-Savoie will provide a springtime lift for your spirits. On the shore of Lake Annecy, it's a short bus ride from the city of Annecy, but less busy and with superior lake and mountain views. Hike to the surrounding peaks, towards the lesser-known Col de l'Arpettaz, or cycle on the excellent greenways. Relax by the cool blue alpine water. Behind you lies the underrated Les Bauges Unesco Geopark. The department only joined France in 1860, and has its own Italian-influenced regional cuisine.

The design has been revealed and it is a sun-like structure that is inspired by Leonardo's intricate knot patterns. Leonardo spent almost 25 years of his life in Milan and many of his most famous works are from his time in the city. The cauldrons have been designed to open and close with a diameter that expands from 3.1 meters to 4.5 meters and will contain the Olympic flame at their core, encased in a glass and metal container.

Last summer, I found myself in Venice during peak tourist season. The crowds were suffocating. Every piazza felt like a theme park, every restaurant seemed designed for Instagram rather than actual dining. Standing on the Rialto Bridge, packed shoulder to shoulder with thousands of other visitors, I couldn't help but wonder: is this really Italy? That question stayed with me long after I returned to London.

Although most vintage train enthusiasts are familiar with the Orient Express for its renowned Paris-to-Venice route, they may not know that the brand has another branch dedicated to exploring Italy by rail. As a Rome-based journalist, I was lucky enough to be one of the first passengers aboard La Dolce Vita Orient Express to experience its "Taste of Tuscan Vineyards" journey from Rome to Montalcino.